Sunday, April 10, 2011

Simply Chaotic Cafe Fantastico - Parkside

Breakfast Board (10)

Poached Eggs & Beans (6)


Scrambled Eggs & Chicken (8)



As many of you know Fantastico is one of my personal favorites for it's commitment to working with great local food makers.  At the Parkside Victoria at 810 Humbolt, this location offers a breakfast menu that capitalizes on contemporary simplicity with neatly streamlined breakfast menu. Like it's other locations, it is tucked away humbly out-of-view  with a slightly smug confidence that their followers will take the time to visit.
The menu, on paper, is ideal in my mind, offering casual high quality ingredients such as local farm-fresh eggs, fresh artisan breads and cheeses and house made compotes.
Being relatively new, I'm going to cut them some slack as the set up is awkward and the service organization a bit adhoc. Two small rooms, one for the service counter and one for dining are connected by a narrow hallway, off of which the closet of a kitchen is housed. We sat down in the tiny but bright dining room and waited while we watched one service person buzz around in a state of busy confusion.  We searched for menus or some sign of the ordering process until we were informed that all orders were self serve at the counter.  After getting traffic jammed in the hallway, I found the main room  packed with people coming, going staying and ordering. It would be really simple for them to put in a POS system in the dining area and have a service person dedicated to running orders but for the time being that's just the way it's gonna be.
I wish I could say that the food was worth the minor frustration but it does need some work. The Breakfast Board ($10) was a bit sparse but offered  a nice local selection of meat, cheese and eggs. The Poached Eggs and Beans ($6) was a rustic country style presentation but somehow, while spiced, had an overpowering blandness to it that spicy-heavy beans sometimes do and was not calmed by the generous dose of hot sauce I treated it with. Chris had Scrambled Eggs with Chicken Confit and Potato Leek Gallette ($8) and it was intensely good but the presentation was a bit too simple bordering on diner-slanged eggs and over-fried hash.
Overall, it's worth a try but maybe give it a couple months to let them get used to the volume they are serving.  Further, with a menu that simple but with an orientation towards local fare I hope to see perhaps a bi-monthly feature come in with the Spring season.

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